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Investigating the silhouette that Dior ushered in with his Autumn-Winter haute couture collection of 1947, these illustrations look at the ways that Dior manipulated the female form. This dramatic silhouette was dubbed the “New Look” by then editor of Harper’s Bazaar, Carmel Snow. This first défilé (fashion parade), shown in February of that year, was a sensation and quickly re-established Paris as the world’s fashion capital - both in creative and economic terms.
The “New Look”, with its rounded shoulders, tiny waistline, and abundantly full hip was a complete contrast to the shoulder padded, masculine styles that dominated the World War Two era. Fabric rationing during wartime made the stricter 40s silhouette a necessity, and Dior’s opposite reaction to that silhouette was not without controversy. Women were attacked in the streets for daring to wear skirts that used upwards of ten metres of fabric.
It is fascinating to explore the subtle ways that Dior reinvents himself during this time, calling each new collection romantic names such as ‘Corolle’ or ‘Envol’. In keeping with the tradition of haute couture, every garment is individually named and these are noted on each work.
Each work is unique, being hand drawn using brush, ink and high quality acid free A3 paper.
Mystère
Day Coat, black wool with moss-green silk taffeta trim, Autumn-Winter 1947, Corolle Line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Drags
Afternoon Dress, navy-blue wool, Spring-Summer 1948, En 8 Line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Fête
Evening Gown, silk faille, Spring-Summer 1948, En 8 Line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Abandon
Afternoon Dress, black silk faille, Autumn-Winter 1948, Ailée Line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Frac
Dinner Dress, black wool and silk faille, Autumn-Winter 1949, Milieu de Siècle line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Désirée
Day Suit, gray wool, Spring-Summer 1951, Naturelle line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
La Cigale
Dance Dress, gray moiré ottoman, Autumn-Winter 1952, Profilée line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Salzbourg
Ball Gown, pale-pink silk faille, Autumn-Winter 1956, Aimant line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm
Tourbillon
Afternoon Dress, black wool crepe, Autumn-Winter 1957, Fuseau line
September 2019, ink on acid free paper, 297 x 420mm